How to Choose Wheels for a Freestyle Scooter: Diameter, Width, Hardness, and Core

⚡ In short: for most riders, 110 × 24 mm, hardness around 86A, aluminum core.

A diameter of 110 mm is today's standard. 100 mm wheels are found on the smallest and cheapest scooters, while 120 mm wheels are for advanced and taller riders. A width of 24 mm is standard; 30 mm is heavier and less common. The hardness of polyurethane is usually 85–88A.

Before buying, always check the maximum diameter and width your fork, deck, and brake can accommodate. The new wheels are supplied without bearings unless otherwise stated; you need two 608 bearings per wheel.

📏 What wheel diameter should you choose: 100, 110, or 120 mm?

The diameter of the wheel is given in millimeters and is the first parameter you need to consider. A larger wheel rolls faster, maintains speed better, and handles bumps more easily, but it is heavier, harder to get spinning, and may not fit the fork, deck, or under the brake. A smaller wheel is lighter and more maneuverable, but slower.

In practice: if your scooter has 110 mm, buy 110 mm. If you have 100 mm, check whether the fork, deck, and brake are compatible with 110 mm (for complete scooters, the manufacturer lists this in the specifications; otherwise, ask us). Only switch to 120 mm once you’re an advanced rider, and always verify compatibility with the specific board and fin. Modifying a scooter to use larger wheels (e.g. bending the brake) may void the warranty.

↔️ Wheel width: 24 or 30 mm?

Width is measured at the wheel hub. 24 mm is the standard accepted by virtually all forks and decks. Wider wheels, 30 mm (sometimes 26 or 28 mm, marketed as “fat” wheels), provide more grip and stability in corners and hold their speed better, but are noticeably heavier. That is precisely why they are not used as much today: their weight.

Compatibility: A 30 mm wheel generally won’t fit in a fork and deck designed for 24 mm; if it does, compatibility depends on the specific product and must be explicitly stated by the manufacturer.

The reverse is possible: a narrower wheel can be fitted into a wider fork using spacers, which are usually included with wider forks. Unless you're specifically building a scooter for wide wheels, stick with 24 mm.

🧪 What does a hardness rating of 85A, 86A, or 88A mean?

The number with the letter A indicates the hardness of the polyurethane (PU, the wheel’s “rubber”) on the durometer scale. The lower the number, the softer the wheel. The vast majority of freestyle scooter wheels have a hardness rating between 85–88A; some manufacturers do not state the hardness at all.

A general rule that applies across manufacturers:

• Softer (around 85–86A): better grip and cushioning, quieter ride, better suited to rougher surfaces. It wears down faster.
• Harder (around 88A and above): faster, more durable and longer-lasting, but they slide more and transmit every crack and pebble to your hands.

In practice, an experienced rider can tell the difference between 85A and 88A, but a beginner cannot. Buy anything in the 85–88A range from a brand that specializes in scooters, and you won’t regret it. Differences in polyurethane quality between manufacturers are greater than the difference between two hardness grades.

⚙️ Wheel core: aluminum or plastic?

The core is the center of the wheel, onto which polyurethane is pressed and into which the bearings are inserted. The core determines whether the wheel survives impacts.

• Solid aluminum core is the strongest and heaviest. Best able to withstand hard impacts and side impacts (whips, spins).
• Spoked core has cutouts in the aluminum to reduce weight. It is the most common configuration today and suitable for everyday riding, incl. absolutely sufficient for jumps.
• Hollow core is even lighter, but slightly less strong than solid core. More for the park and lighter riders.
• Plastic (nylon) core can be found on the cheapest scooters. It is lightweight and inexpensive, but flexes on impact, cracks, and the bearing seats get worn out. Suitable for riding, but not for jumping.

Recommendation: an aluminum core, even for beginners. It lasts the longest, and it’s the first upgrade worth getting for a cheap scooter. The difference between a solid core and a spoked core is mainly in weight and appearance, not in how the wheel rides. Color is a matter of taste; light-colored polyurethane gets dirty quickly.

🔘 Bearings: what’s included in the price, and what does ABEC mean?

Each wheel requires 2 bearings and 1 spacer tube between them. The standard is 608 bearings for an 8 mm axle, the same as those used in skateboards and skates. The exception is the niche 12STD standard, with a 12 mm axle and different bearings, used mainly by Ethic and gradually being phased out in the Czech Republic.

What’s included: For wheels, always check whether they are sold with or without bearings.

Both cases are common; we list this for every product. When replacing completely worn-out wheels, it is usually worth replacing the bearings as well; with newer wheels, you can simply press the old bearings into the new ones.

ABEC (1, 3, 5, 7, 9) is a bearing manufacturing precision class, not a measure of its durability or quality.

A higher number means a more precise tolerance, but says nothing about the material, seal, or lubricant. Some brands don’t specify an ABEC rating at all, and their bearings are excellent. For a scooter, it’s more important that the bearing has good dust sealing and comes from a reliable manufacturer.

🔁 When should you replace the wheels?

Wheels are a consumable part. How long they last depends on the rider: a careful rider on clean surfaces can get months to a whole season out of them, while an aggressive rider on sand and in wet conditions can wear them out in just a few weeks. The rear wheel wears down faster (braking, impacts), so it’s a good idea to swap the wheels around occasionally. Replace them when you see:

• Flat spot. It is caused by locking the rear wheel with the brake. Then the wheel rattles, and it can’t be fixed. It is not a manufacturing defect.
• Polyurethane delaminated from the core or detached pieces. The wheel may unexpectedly slip off the core.
• Cracked or deformed core. Often after a hard impact to the side. Replace immediately.
• Crushed bearing seat. If the wheel knocks even with new bearings and a tightened axle, the hub is ovalized, and only a new wheel will help.
• Worn polyurethane. The wheel is visibly smaller. With a flex fender brake, this poses an additional risk: the metal bends more over the small wheel and cracks.

Practical recommendation: at the start of the season, inspect the entire scooter and replace anything that is damaged. Wheels with little wear where the polyurethane is peeling off may have a manufacturing defect. See How to Make a Warranty Claim.

🔍 How do I find out which wheels will fit my scooter?

The wheel must fit into all three pieces at once. Before buying, read:

1. Fork: has a specified maximum diameter (most commonly 110 mm, or 120 mm on newer models) and width (24 or 30 mm). A larger wheel won't fit in it, but a smaller one will. Check the specifications of the fork or the complete scooter.
2. Board: it also has a maximum diameter and width for the rear wheel. For the 120 mm wheels, it always depends on the specific board; it varies even between boards from the same brand.
3. Brake: it is designed for 100 or 110 mm. A 110 mm wheel won't fit under a 100 mm brake; a 100 mm wheel works under a 110 mm brake. When switching to a larger wheel, you often need a new brake as well, and it must fit your deck.

If you're not sure, send us the name of the set or a photo, and we'll advise you on what will fit. You can measure the existing wheel yourself: measure the diameter with a ruler through the center, and the width at the hub.

⚠️ Most Common Mistakes When Choosing Wheels

• A larger wheel without checking the fork, deck, and brake. Most commonly, a 110 mm wheel is fitted to a scooter designed for 100 mm: the wheel rubs against the brake or fork.
• Wheels with a plastic core “for testing”. The bearing seats crack and become deformed. Aluminum even for beginners.
• 120 mm wheels for a small child. A heavier bike is harder to pedal and lift, making it harder for the child to learn. 120 mm is for advanced and tall riders.
• 30 mm wheel for a 24 mm fork. It will not fit unless the manufacturer explicitly states otherwise.
• Forgotten bearings. You cannot install the wheel without bearings. Check what’s included in the package, and have 2 608 bearings + a spacer for the wheel.
• Continuous braking with the rear brake. Creates a flat spot on the wheel, which then rattles. Brake gently and briefly.
• Hammering in bearings. It destroys both the bearing and the core, and voids the warranty. Press straight down.

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