Written by Martin Nogol, Scootshop.cz · Updated on the 14th. 10. 2026
⚡ In short: the type of compression is determined by the forks. The handlebars and clamp are selected for it.
Compression tightens the headset so the handlebars have no play while still turning smoothly. Today, three systems are used: SCS (the strongest and heaviest, with handlebars without a slit), HIC (oversized 35/32 steel handlebars with a slit), and IHC (the lightest, most common on complete scooters, with handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm). The fourth, ICS (a bolt underneath the fork), is a thing of the past and is found only on old scooters.
If you’re not sure what you have, see the section How to tell which compression I have. It is always tightened in the order compression → sleeve.
🔩 The fork makes the difference
The type of compression is determined by the fork. You choose the handlebars and clamp to go with it, not the other way around.
🅰️ SCS = no notch
Bars with a slit for SCS only with a bar adapter.
Otherwise, the clamp will press into the notch and the handlebars will crack.🅲 IHC = 28 mm inside
Only handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm fit the IHC fork. Oversized 35/32 never.
🔧 Compression → sleeve
Always tighten the compression screw first, and only then the clamp. It doesn't work the other way around.
🎯 Sweet spot
No willpower, but not “to the point of blood.” Excessive compression hinders rotation and damages the bearings.
A freestyle scooter does not have a folding joint. The handlebars, fork, and deck are held together by three components that must work together:
There are three common compression systems: SCS, HIC, and IHC (and the historical ICS, which is no longer used today). They differ in the route of the compression bolt and in which fork and handlebars they fit. They all do the same thing, but they are not interchangeable. The type of compression is always determined by the fork; the handlebars (inner and outer diameter, with or without a slit) and clamp are then selected to match.
The same sequence applies to all systems: tighten the compression fitting first, then the sleeve. The clamp fixes the handlebars to the fork, so the compression bolt would have nothing left to tighten. In detail in the How to tighten the compression correctly section.
How it works: SCS is a large clamp with two diameters: the lower part clamps around the fork steerer, while the upper part holds the handlebars.
The compression system is hidden inside the stem: the compression bolt with the top cap screws down into the threads in the fork and presses against the stem’s inner edge, tightening the headset. The clamp then secures the handlebars with four (three on lightweight models) side bolts. The compression fitting and the sleeve are therefore one piece.Who it’s for: for riders who want maximum strength: heavier or taller riders, street riding, hard impacts. It is the most robust system and also the most difficult, so it is used less with the youngest children.
💡 Why is SCS popular for conversions?
Because it fits any handlebars without a notch (or with a notch and an adapter), it’s the most versatile way to fit handlebars to a scooter that otherwise wouldn’t fit the fork. Please note: The SCS clamp is tall, so it will increase the scooter’s overall height by a few centimeters.
How it works: An HIC shim is placed on the fork steerer tube (the same as with SCS), increasing its diameter so that it fits inside oversized handlebars. The compression bolt with a cap screws down into the built-in thread in the fork and presses the washer against the deck’s head tube, tightening the headset. The handlebars are then fitted over the spacer and secured with a standard clamp. The entire compression mechanism is hidden inside the handlebars, hence “hidden.”
For whom: for riders who want a solid system, but one that’s lighter than SCS.
Typically mid-range and high-end, street and park. Disadvantage compared to SCS: the handlebars must have a slit, which is always a weaker point than a solid tube.💡 When compression doesn’t “quite get there”
The HIC shim must extend beyond the part of the fork steerer that protrudes from the head tube. When the fork sticks out too high, the spacer sits on the steerer tube and has nothing to press against. A thin spacer (headset spacer) under the HIC shim will help.
How it works: the same principle as HIC, but the IHC fork has a thinner steerer tube. As a result, it fits handlebars with an internal diameter of 28 mm, including standard steel and aluminum handlebars. An IHC compression ring (the smaller C-ring) is inserted into the upper headset bearing to fill the gap between the narrower steerer tube and the bearing. Fit the IHC shim onto the bar, then place the cap on top and thread the compression bolt into the built-in thread in the fork.
For whom: for most children and beginners. It is the lightest system, and you will find it on most complete sets in the intermediate and beginner classes. The thinner bar is also its limitation: for the hardest street riding and heavier riders, advanced riders tend to choose HIC or SCS.
💡 Parenting shortcut
If the scooter has IHC (most common on complete scooters), always buy handlebars marked “IHC” or with an inner diameter of 28 mm and a slit. Never “HIC” or “oversized 35/32”.
ICS is an older system that is no longer used today and is only found on old scooters. A long compression bolt passes through the fork from below (from the front wheel) and threads into the star nut inside the handlebars; the handlebars have an internal diameter of 28 mm and a slot. The front wheel must be removed for tightening. If a scooter like this knocks and the headset slips, converting it to IHC or HIC (new fork + handlebars) is usually a more sensible option than repairing it.
Before SCS/HIC/IHC came along, scooters were held together like an old bicycle: a threaded fork, a threaded (non-integrated) headset, and two nuts tightened against each other. The lower matrix pulls the headset down, while the upper one counteracts it. The handlebars are held in place by a clamp.
It is very cheap, which is why it is unfortunately still used in the cheapest sets. Disadvantages: threaded forks crack sooner, cheap headsets wear out quickly, and the nuts are difficult to tighten enough to stop the handlebars from rattling. If the scooter is only used for riding, you can live with that. For jumps and tricks, we recommend a scooter with an integrated headset and one of the three modern compression systems (SCS, HIC, IHC). Parts for the threaded system are hardly sold anymore these days.
Handlebar diameters are given as outer / inner in mm. Standard steel = 32/28, oversized steel or titanium = 35/32, aluminum = 35/28. More in the article How to Choose Handlebars for a Freestyle Scooter.
| System | 🔱 Fork | 🪢 Handlebars (outer/inner) | ✂️ Slit | ⭕ Clamp | 🧩 Shim / accessories |
| SCS | SCS or HIC fork (same steerer tube with built-in thread) | 32/28, 35/32, and 35/28—in other words, all sizes | No. With a slit, only with a bar adapter | 32 mm SCS clamp for 32 mm bars, 35 mm SCS for 35 mm bars | Shim for 32 mm bars in 35 mm SCS; headset spacer when the fork is higher than the clamp edge |
| HIC | HIC or SCS fork | 35/32 only (oversized steel or titanium) | Yes, required | Standard 35 mm clamp (not SCS) | The HIC shim is part of the system; headset spacer when the shim does not extend beyond the steerer tube |
| IHC | IHC fork only (thinner steerer tube) | 32/28 (standard steel) or 35/28 (aluminum). 35/32 never | Yes, required | Standard 32 mm clamp for steel, 35 mm for aluminum bars | IHC headset ring + IHC washer (usually supplied with the fork); 35→32 shim for steel bars in a 35 mm clamp |
| ICS (historical, no longer used) | ICS forks only (hole for a bolt underneath) | Bars with a star nut inside, 28 mm inner diameter | Yes | Standard 32 or 35 mm clamp, depending on the bars | Older scooters only; parts are no longer readily available |
| Threaded | Threaded fork + threaded headset | Standard 32/28 | Yes | Standard 32 mm clamp | Two locknuts; budget segment and older scooters |
A shim is a thin reducing insert that decreases the clamp’s inner diameter from 35 to 32 mm. Many oversized sleeves include it in the package. You can find compression parts in the HIC, IHC, ICS, shims and star nuts category, regular clamps in the clamps category, and SCS clamps in the SCS category.
You don’t have to take anything apart. Just take a look at the connection between the handlebars and the fork:
| 👀 What you see | 🔩 Compression |
| A large, tall clamp with 3–4 bolts, the fork below it and the handlebars above. | SCS |
| The handlebars are mounted directly onto the fork and are held in place by a standard low clamp. When you remove the grips or look down into the handlebars from above, you will see a screw with a washer. The handlebars are oversized (thicker lower tube, 35 mm, steel/titanium). | HIC |
| The same (a bolt at the top of the handlebars, a standard clamp), but the handlebars are standard 32 mm steel or aluminum, and the fork steerer is visibly thinner. | IHC |
| The bolt head is underneath the fork, between the fork legs above the front wheel. There is nothing at the top of the handlebars. | ICS (historical, only on old scooters) |
| Above the deck's head tube are two large nuts on the fork thread. | Threaded |
If you're not sure, take a photo of the handlebar and fork connection from the side and above and send it to us, or bring your scooter to our store in Pardubice. It’s especially useful before buying new handlebars.
Properly tightened compression has a sweet spot: there is no play in the headset, but the handlebars still turn smoothly and easily. Over-tightening the compression “to the max” won’t improve anything; on the contrary, it makes turning harder (which gets in the way of barspins and whips) and prematurely wears out the headset bearings. Insufficiently compressed snow clumps together and keeps coming loose with every impact.
💡 Diagnosis: the handlebars have play—what should you do as soon as possible?
Always compress first, then apply the sleeve. If there’s a “click” when rocking it back and forth, the headset is loose, meaning it needs compression. If the handlebars rotate relative to the wheel, the clamp is loose. If the compression is secure and it still rattles, check the wheel axles, the brake, and finally the headset: the bearings may be worn out and need replacing. If the compression keeps loosening, a drop of thread locker on the compression screw will help.
Tools: an Allen key is all you need for the compression bolt and clamp, most commonly 6 mm (the size varies by manufacturer). The full inspection procedure for a new scooter is covered in our guide How to assemble a new freestyle scooter and what to check before your first ride.
Same principle (bolt from above, spacer on the fork, standard clamp), different fork steerer tube thickness. HIC has a strong compression system and only accepts oversized 35/32 steel handlebars. IHC has a thinner stem and fits handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm (standard steel bars are 32/28 and aluminum bars are 35/28). The forks and handlebars cannot be swapped between them.
SCS is the strongest, while IHC is the lightest. For a child or beginner, an IHC is more than adequate (which is why most complete sets include one). SCS or HIC is worth it for heavier riders, street riding, and hard landings.
No. The SCS clamp is designed for a thicker HIC/SCS fork steerer. It wouldn't retract on the IHC fork. For SCS, you need an HIC/SCS fork.
A shim is a thin metal reducer that reduces the inner diameter of the sleeve from 35 to 32 mm. You need it when fitting standard steel handlebars (32 mm outer diameter) into an oversized clamp or oversized SCS. The HIC spacer is also sometimes called a shim, but it is a different part.
Loosen the clamp and tighten the compression fitting first (not the other way around). If the knocking continues, check the wheel axles and the brake. If that still doesn’t help, the headset bearings are most likely worn out and need to be replaced. For an old scooter with a historic ICS, also check whether the hedgehog in the handlebars is slipping.
Quick drop test after every ride: lift the scooter a few centimeters off the ground and drop it onto its wheels. A dull thud is fine; a metallic knocking means something is loose. At the start of the season, inspect the entire scooter and tighten all the screws.
Write to us or visit our store in Pardubice. We’ll check and adjust the compression on the spot; we also service scooters purchased elsewhere. You can find the parts in the HIC, IHC, ICS compression, SCS, forks, and headsets categories. Related articles: How to choose handlebars and How to choose wheels. Another guide in the Guides section.





