How to choose handlebars for a freestyle scooter: height, width, diameter, and material

⚡ In short: first find out what compression and fork you have. Only then address the height.

The handlebars should reach between the navel and the waist when the rider is standing on the board. When replacing them, measure the existing handlebars and add how much higher they should be. The width is individual; for beginners, use shoulder width as a rough guide. Handlebars can be shortened, but not lengthened.

There are three diameters: 32/28 (standard steel), 35/32 (oversized steel/titanium, HIC or SCS only), and 35/28 (aluminum). Only handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm fit IHC forks; SCS handlebars must have no slit.

📏 How tall should freestyle scooter handlebars be?

First, two heights that are often confused:

• Handlebar height is measured from the bottom end of the vertical tube to the top edge of the crossbar. We state this value for standalone handlebars.
• Overall scooter height is measured from the ground to the top edge of the handlebars. Here we list the complete scooters and use this to choose a first scooter (you can find the table in the article How to choose a freestyle scooter).

Rule: when the rider is standing on the deck, the handlebars should reach between the navel and the waist. Lower handlebars force you to hunch over and cause back pain, but provide better control in the air (park). Higher handlebars are more comfortable, more stable, and better for grinds and manuals (street). A beginner who is between two heights should choose the higher one: they can be shortened. Advanced riders adjust the height themselves and often ride lower than the rule recommends.

How to calculate the height of new handlebars when replacing them

The simplest method, which works with every compression type:

1. Have the child stand on the board and measure how many centimeters too low the current handlebars are (where they are now and where they should be, i.e. between the navel and the waist).
2. Measure the existing handlebars: from the bottom of the tube to the top edge. If you cannot remove them, measure from the bottom edge of the clamp to the top of the handlebars and add the clamp height.
3. New height = existing height + the difference from point 1.

Example: child 140 cm tall, current handlebars 58 cm, needs 5 cm more. You’re buying handlebars measuring 62–65 cm (taller ones can be cut down, and your child will grow).

If you want to know the future overall height of the scooter with the new handlebars: for HIC and IHC, measure from the ground to the bottom edge of the clamp and add the height of the handlebars.

For SCS, measure from the ground to the center of the SCS clamp and add the handlebar height (the bottom of the handlebars sits inside the clamp).

↔️ How wide should the handlebars be?

Width is measured along the top bar from one end to the other (excluding grips). Width is a matter of personal preference; as a general guideline for beginners, use shoulder width, while more experienced riders adjust it individually.

• Wider handlebars are more stable and easier to hold, but make barspins harder and put strain on children’s shoulders and wrists.
• Narrower handlebars are more maneuverable and lighter, but feel unstable on landings.

When in doubt, choose the wider one: handlebars can be shortened in both width and height, but they can never be extended. We can shorten them in the shop, or you can do it at home with a hacksaw and a file (smooth the cut, otherwise it will tear the grips). Very tall and wide handlebars bend more easily on bad landings, so they’re better suited to experienced riders who land cleanly.

⭕ What handlebar diameter: 32/28, 35/32, or 35/28?

For handlebars, two diameters of the lower tube are always specified in millimeters: outer / inner. The outer diameter determines which sleeve you need. The inner diameter determines which fork (and thus which compression system) the handlebars will fit. There are three classes:

We give rounded diameters; manufacturers sometimes list 31.8 or 34.9 mm—it’s the same thing.

Oversized handlebars are stronger and heavier; standard handlebars are lighter and slightly weaker. The aluminum ones have the same outer diameter as the oversized ones, but a thicker wall (which is why the inner diameter is only 28 mm), so the softer material can withstand the load. It is precisely the 28 mm inner diameter that allows aluminum handlebars to fit an IHC fork, but not an HIC one.

🧱 Steel, aluminum, or titanium?

• Steel (chromoly) is the most common. The strongest and cheapest option; the trade-off is greater weight. It is made for all compression systems and can be produced as a simple T-bar without reinforcements. Some steel handlebars have butted walls to save weight. For kids, beginners, and street skating, it’s an obvious choice.
• Aluminum is lightweight and affordable, but more brittle and stiffer than steel: it is more likely to crack than bend. That’s why aluminum handlebars often have a Y-shaped design with reinforcements and thicker walls. Suitable for lightweight riders and parks, where weight matters.
• Titanium is as light as aluminum and as strong as steel, while also offering slight flexibility and absorbing impacts. It is significantly more expensive. When it fails, it doesn’t bend but snaps suddenly, so we recommend it only for experienced riders and advise replacing the handlebars at the first signs of fatigue (cracks, deformation).

In short: weight vs. strength vs. price. Steel wins on strength and price, aluminum on weight and price, titanium on weight and strength. Quality varies by manufacturer within each group, so even steel handlebars come in both lightweight and heavy versions.

T-bar or Y-bar?

T-bar is a simple T made from two tubes, typically steel or titanium. Y-bar has diagonal braces between the vertical tube and the crossbar, typically made of aluminum. Neither shape is objectively better; T is cleaner and simpler, while Y is stronger when the material is weaker. Choose based on the material and your taste.

Backsweep means that the handlebar is slightly bent back toward the rider, while upsweep means it bends upward. You’ll find them mainly on wider handlebars and Y-shaped handlebars. It’s a matter of habit and comfort, and not important for a beginner.

✂️ Handlebar slit: when it must be present and when it must not

A slit is a vertical cut at the bottom of the handlebar tube. It tightens the tube around the fork leg. Whether you need it is determined by compression:

• HIC, IHC: the notch is mandatory. Without it, the handlebars won’t clamp onto the fork and will rotate.
• SCS: There must be no notch. The SCS clamp grips the handlebars around their entire circumference; a slit would compress them and cause them to crack. Slotted handlebars can be used with SCS only with a bar adapter (an insert that closes off the slot). Many HIC/IHC handlebars come with it included. The notch can also be cut off, but this will shorten the handlebars and void the warranty.

Two practical rules:

• The notch belongs at the back, facing the rider. Sometimes it is also done from the side; in that case, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Never in advance.
• Ideally, the groove should be entirely beneath the clamp; this gives the handlebars the greatest durability. However, manufacturers often make it a little longer than the clamp to make it easier for children to tighten. It is not a defect. In all cases, the clamp should sit as low as possible, at the lower end of the slot.

🔩 Which handlebars work with which compression system?

Compression is a system that tightens the headset so the handlebars don’t wobble. It is determined by the fork, so the handlebars are chosen to match it. We describe the three systems (and the historic ICS) in detail in the article SCS, HIC and IHC Compression Systems; here, we’ll cover only what relates to handlebars:

⚠️ The Most Common Mistakes When Choosing Handlebars

• Choosing based on appearance, not compression. Beautiful oversized handlebars will never fit an IHC fork. First, compression and averages, then color.
• Confusing handlebar height with the overall height of the scooter. Handlebars 60 cm does not mean the scooter is 60 cm tall. The overall height is the handlebar + fork height above the ground (approximately + the height of the bottom of the clamp above the ground).
• Handlebars set too low “for control”. The child is slouching, has back pain, and is having more difficulty learning. Navel to waist.
• Handlebars with a notch in the SCS without an adapter. They crack at the bottom.
• Forward notch or sleeve above the notch. The handlebars break at the notch.
• Socket of the wrong diameter. A 32 mm clamp will not fit 35 mm handlebars; a 35 mm clamp will not hold on 32 mm handlebars without a shim.
• Tightened sleeve before compression. The handlebars keep rattling. The order is compression → sleeve.

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