How to Choose a Clamp for a Freestyle Scooter

⚡ In short: choose the clamp based on the outer diameter of the handlebars. Either 32 mm or 35 mm.

The clamp secures the handlebars around the fork steerer tube to prevent them from rotating.

The exception is the SCS clamp: it is both a compression system and a clamp, and it only fits an SCS/HIC fork with handlebars that have no slit. For each clamp, tighten in the order compression → clamp, with the screws in a cross pattern.

⭕ What does a socket do?

A clamp is a metal ring with two to four bolts that sits at the bottom of the handlebars. The handlebars are fitted onto the fork steerer and have a slot at the bottom; the clamp tightens around the slot, preventing them from rotating on the steerer or moving up and down. It is the only part that holds the handlebars to the fork.

However, the clamp does not eliminate play in the headset. Compression is adjusted here (compression screw in the fork). That’s why you should always tighten the compression bolt first and the clamp afterward: if you tighten the clamp first, it locks the handlebars onto the fork, leaving the compression bolt with nothing left to tighten. You can find an explanation of the entire system in the article SCS, HIC and IHC Compression Systems.

The only exception is the SCS clamp, in which the compression and clamp are a single part. We cover this in a separate section below.

📐 32 mm or 35 mm clamp?

The only dimension you need to consider when choosing a standard socket is its inner diameter. It must match the outer diameter of the handlebars at the bottom, where the clamp sits:

• 32 mm clamp is only for standard steel handlebars with an outer diameter of 32 mm. You can’t fit oversized or aluminum handlebars into it either.
• The 35 mm clamp is for oversized steel handlebars (35/32, used with HIC) and aluminum handlebars (35/28, used with IHC). Most 35 mm sleeves include a shim: a thin, split metal insert that reduces the inner diameter to 32 mm. With the shim, the 35 mm clamp will also grip standard steel handlebars.

If you’re not sure what type of handlebars you have, check their description or measure the outer diameter of the lower tube with calipers: about 32 mm = standard, about 35 mm = oversized or aluminium. We discuss handlebar diameters and types in the article How to Choose Handlebars.

The number of screws (2, 3, or 4) does not affect the selection.

🅰️ SCS clamp: when the clamp is also the compression system

An SCS clamp is a tall clamp with two openings stacked on top of each other: the lower section tightens around the fork steerer tube, while the upper section holds the handlebars.

• Fork: SCS/HIC forks only (stronger steerer tube). It doesn’t work on an IHC fork, only on SCS.
• Handlebars: ideally without a cutout. An SCS clamp grips the handlebars around the entire circumference and would compress the slit, causing the handlebars to crack at the bottom. Notched handlebars can be used with SCS only with a bar adapter (a metal insert that fills the notch); many handlebars come with one included.
• Diameter: SCS is also 32 mm or 35 mm, depending on the outer diameter of the handlebars. Standard 32 mm handlebars in 35 mm SCS with a shim only.
• Fork height: the fork steerer tube must not extend above the inner edge of the clamp, otherwise the compression will not tighten properly. It is addressed with a headset spacer or by shortening the fork.

You can find SCS clamps in the SCS category. For a child or beginner with a complete scooter featuring IHC, there’s no reason to switch to SCS; it makes sense for heavier riders and street riding.

📋 Handlebars × clamp × shim

Handlebar diameters are given as outer / inner in mm.

Standard clamps can be found in the clamps category, shims in the HIC, IHC, shimy.

🔧 How to tighten the clamp properly and when to replace it?

1. Compression first. With the clamp loosened, tighten the compression bolt until you reach the sweet spot: no play in the headset, but the handlebars still turn freely. For SCS: compression bolt → lower clamp bolts (around the fork) → install the handlebars → upper bolts.
2. Align the handlebars with the front wheel. Stand behind the scooter and look down at it; the notch points backward toward you.
3. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern, a little at a time. For four bolts, in the order 1-3-2-4; for two bolts, alternately. Never fully tighten one screw and then the next: the clamp will bend and hold less securely.
4. Check. Place the front wheel between your feet and try turning the handlebars to the side. It must not move. Tighten firmly, but don’t overdo it: you’ll strip the thread.

All you need is an Allen key, usually 5 or 6 mm. You can find detailed instructions for all systems in the article How to Tighten the Compression Plug and Handlebars.

⚠️ Most common mistakes

• Using a 32 mm clamp on aluminum or oversized handlebars. It won’t deploy. Both the aluminum and oversized versions are 35 mm.
• 35 mm clamp for standard handlebars, without a shim. The clamp won’t tighten, and the handlebars keep slipping. A shim is necessary.
• Collar tightened before compression. The compression screw then has nothing to tighten, and the headset rattles. Always compression → sleeve.
• Tighten one screw fully, then the other. The socket bends. Crosswise, step by step.
• SCS handlebar clamp with a slit, without an adapter. The notch is pressed and the handlebars crack.
• SCS clamp for IHC fork. A thin post will not clamp. SCS only on an SCS/HIC fork.
• Tightening "as hard as possible". Stripped thread in the clamp, sometimes handlebars that have been crushed too. Firmly, not with your whole body’s strength.

❓ FAQ