How to choose a fork for a freestyle scooter

⚡ In short: the fork determines two things. What compression system does the scooter have, and what size wheel fits it?

Two types are sold today: SCS/HIC forks (a thicker steerer tube with a built-in thread, for SCS and HIC compression) and IHC forks (a thinner steerer tube, the lightest type, most common on complete scooters; only fits handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm).

When replacing it, buy the same type as the one you have; otherwise, you will also have to replace the handlebars and the clamp.

Wheel: the standard 110 × 24 mm fits almost every fork; 120 mm wheels and a 30 mm width depend on the specific product.

The shaft is 8 mm. Replace the fork if the steerer tube is bent or cracked.

🔱 What is a fork and what does it do on a scooter?

The fork is the part that holds the front wheel and connects it to the handlebars. It consists of three parts:

• Steerer tube passes through the board’s head tube, and the handlebars are fitted onto it at the top. Inside the steerer tube of modern forks, there is a built-in thread for the compression bolt. The stem determines what kind of suspension the scooter has.
• Crown race is an extension beneath the steerer tube on which the lower headset bearing sits. On modern forks, the crown race seat is machined directly into the fork, so nothing needs to be fitted.
• Fork legs with axle holes hold the front wheel. Their spacing and height determine how wide and large a wheel can fit.

Forks are replaced infrequently: if they bend or crack, or if you want larger wheels or a different compression system. The fork is always the first part you choose, and the rest are selected to match it: the handlebars, clamp, and front wheel are bought to fit it.

🔩 What compression does the fork have: SCS/HIC or IHC?

Compression is the way the fork is tightened against the deck so that the handlebars have no play. We discuss it in detail in our article SCS, HIC and IHC compression systems; here, we’ll focus only on what matters when choosing a fork. Today, there are two types of forks:

• SCS/HIC fork has a thicker steerer tube with a built-in thread for the compression bolt. It’s one and the same fork: with an SCS clamp, you have SCS compression; with a HIC shim and a standard clamp, you have HIC compression. For HIC, it only fits oversized 35/32 steel bars with a slit; for SCS, any bars without a slit. It is sturdier and heavier, making it suitable for older, heavier riders and street riding.
• IHC fork has a thinner tube, also with an integrated thread. Thanks to this, it fits handlebars with an inner diameter of 28 mm: standard steel 32/28 and aluminum 35/28. The Oversized 35/32 doesn’t fit her, even with an adapter. It is the lightest, which is why most sets for children and beginners include it.

The historical system is ICS (a screw at the bottom of the fork), a press-fit “star nut” instead of a thread, and threaded forks with two locknuts, which are still found on the cheapest scooters. You can hardly find parts for them these days; converting to IHC or SCS/HIC (fork + handlebars + clamp) is the more sensible option.

🛞 What size wheel fits in the fork?

Each fork has a specified maximum diameter and width of the wheel. Three rules:

• Diameter: The standard is 110 mm, and practically every modern fork accepts it. Whether 120 mm will fit always depends on the specific product; 125 mm sizes are hardly manufactured anymore. The smaller wheel (100 mm) always fits in the fork designed for 110 mm.
• Width: the standard is 24 mm. Wider 30 mm wheels only fit forks designed for them; generally, they do not fit. A fork designed for 30 mm wheels usually comes with spacers for narrower wheels, so a narrower wheel can fit in a wider fork, but never the other way around.
• Axle: the standard is 8 mm (608 bearings), which is used by the vast majority of forks and wheels. The exception is the 12STD standard, with a 12 mm axle and different bearings. It is used mainly by Ethic; it is not widespread in the Czech Republic and is being phased out. A 12STD fork can also be fitted with a standard 8 mm wheel using an adapter; conversely, a 12STD wheel will not fit an 8 mm fork.

Before buying a fork, write down the diameter and width of the wheels you have and compare them with the fork description. The larger wheel must also fit through the deck and under the brake; for more information, see our article “Which wheel will fit my fork, deck, and under the brake?” The wheels themselves are explained in the article How to Choose Wheels.

📋 Compression × fork × handlebars: what goes together

Handlebar diameters are given as outer / inner in mm. More in the article How to Choose Handlebars.

You can find forks in the freestyle scooter forks category, compression parts in the HIC, IHC, shims and SCS categories.

⚙️ Material, construction, and offset

One-piece aluminum is the modern standard: the fork is milled or forged as a single piece, with no welds, making it lightweight and strong. Steel welded fork (a tube welded to the legs) is cheaper and heavier, and the weld is a weak point; you’ll find it on the cheapest builds, often in a threaded version. For jumps and tricks, choose a one-piece aluminum scooter. Don't worry about the specific alloy; it doesn't affect the selection.

Offset is the distance between the wheel axis and the column axis.

A fork with offset (the axle positioned forward) rides more stably; a “zero-offset” fork (the axle directly below the steerer tube) is more playful for nose manuals. A beginner won’t notice the difference; we mention it only so you know what it means in the description.

🔧 When should you replace the fork, and how can you make it last longer?

• Bent post. The handlebars point in a different direction from the wheel, even though the clamp is properly tightened, or the fork turns in the headset with resistance only through part of its rotation. A bent fork doesn’t straighten itself; it changes.
• Crack at the crown, on the legs, or at the weld (steel forks). Check after a hard fall.
• Stripped thread in the steerer tube: the compression bolt won’t hold and the compression keeps loosening.
• Worn-out axle holes: the wheel has play even when the axle is tightened.

You can easily extend its lifespan: keep the compression properly tightened (with no play, but not “as tight as possible”), the wheel axle tightened (a loose axle damages the holes in the fork), and avoid riding in the rain or through puddles. You’ll notice a material defect during your first rides and can report it under the warranty according to the How to Make a Warranty Claim guide.

⚠️ Common mistakes when choosing a fork

• A different compression type than the handlebars have. IHC fork for oversized 35/32 handlebars or SCS/HIC fork for standard 32/28 handlebars without SCS. It can't be assembled. Buy the same type as the one you have.
• Unchecked wheel diameter. Fork for a 110 mm blade and a 120 mm wheel. Always compare it with the wheels you have.
• Wide fork for 30 mm and 24 mm wheels without spacers. The wheel wobbles in it and damages the bearings. Spacers must be included in the package or purchased separately.
• 12STD fork by mistake. It has a 12 mm axle; your 8 mm wheels will only fit it with an adapter.

❓ FAQ